Cleaning up the Akai GX-630D-SS QR2R - Oh My!

[JonUrban]

Thanks to all of the great QQ advice, esp David and Mike, I blew the dust out of that switch, blasted some D5 in there, flipped it a few times (well, maybe more than a few times), let it sit, then tried it with it all apart. All 4 channels were banging the meters! Nice. I flipped and flipped and no matter what, all 4 channels came back - so that worked!!

Now, another issue just popped up that's not good. When I powered the unit up to test the switch, one of the meters did not light. It was working before my disassemble, so maybe I screwed something up or maybe it just crapped out. I would bet on the former.

Anyway, these things are extinct, so I'm looking for advice again. Is there some internet source somewhere that might have something that would replace this AKAI NE-1047?

 

[quadsearcher]

That is a quality build. Easy switch to get cleaner into and you might even be able to see the contacts through the end. I'm a nut, sometimes if something is going to occupy the bench for a few days, I'll get cleaner into each switch, pot, and connector, flip switches, turn pots, let it sit overnight and next day flush them out a little or follow up with Caig Preservit (just because I've had a can of it for 20 years). Preservit is not for slide pots or things treated with fader lube.

 

[DuncanS]

Thanks to all of the great QQ advice, esp David and Mike, I blew the dust out of that switch, blasted some D5 in there, flipped it a few times (well, maybe more than a few times), let it sit, then tried it with it all apart. All 4 channels were banging the meters! Nice. I flipped and flipped and no matter what, all 4 channels came back - so that worked!!

Now, another issue just popped up that's not good. When I powered the unit up to test the switch, one of the meters did not light. It was working before my disassemble, so maybe I screwed something up or maybe it just crapped out. I would bet on the former.

Anyway, these things are extinct, so I'm looking for advice again. Is there some internet source somewhere that might have something that would replace this AKAI NE-1047?

View attachment 52503

I'm on my phone, but ages back I found somewhere in the US which had Akai R2R spares, in the morning I'll look on my PC and see if I saved the url. I ended up sending both mine to a reel-to-reel specialist not far from me in the UK for a service.

 

[Quadwreck]

A lot of fine soldering work was done by women, electronics factories hired them for their smaller hands and dexterity.

 

[Lokkerman]

I have never replaced a pinch roller in the fifty years I have had tape decks and I have always used alcohol on the pinch roller without a problem.

You've obviously never had a Ferrograph then, they notoriously suffered from idler wheel and pinch roller melt down; one day a great deck, next day a lump of goo. Having said that I never had a poblem with an Akai and I use meths on my GX630DSS

 

[Lokkerman]

Jon
if you need any help please let me know, I refurbish machines as a hobby; In my study I'm surrounded by a TEAC X-1000M and Ferrograph Logic 7 and two Revox A77's. I've got about 20 mchines in all. I also have the service manual if you want it...

 

[MidiMagic]

Have fun trying to get that alcohol. The hordes of hoarders are buying it up.

I got sick of replacing lights in VU meters years ago and used yellow LEDS and resistors instead. I even made the meters turn red when the tape ran out.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Jon...Go look at vintage-electronics.net. That's where I purchase all my meter light bulbs, including LED (with pre- attached resisters) replacements.

You are correct Lokkerman...Just Teacs and Akais.

91% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol? Gone? Just like toilet paper? My My.

 

[JonUrban]

Hey thanks everyone. I actually bought a bottle of head cleaner and roller cleaner/rubber restorer years ago and still have them. I would assume they might still be good, and I will try them.

Today I broke out the "twin", I've had it sitting in my bedroom closet for probably 20 years. I actually don't remember what was wrong with it, but it could actually be just a dirty switch like the first one. More fun!

The "twin" is my original unit bought when I was in the Navy back around 1975. The current unit is one I bagged off eBay about 20 years ago for $300 when the first unit was acting up.

As I said, the light is probably a low priority as the meter works fine, but it would be nice to have it. I will report back on what I discover on the original unit.

I hope I'm not boring you all with this ****, I just felt you all might like to look at the pictures. If not I'll stop. I certainly am not bragging (I hope) about anything.

 

[JonUrban]

Jon
if you need any help please let me know, I refurbish machines as a hobby; In my study I'm surrounded by a TEAC X-1000M and Ferrograph Logic 7 and two Revox A77's. I've got about 20 mchines in all. I also have the service manual if you want it...

Thanks for the offer. The only issue I have currently is that little bulb under the second meter. It was working but I may have smacked it or something in removing the cover panel. I wasn't quite sure how it came off and I might have jarred it or something.

If you know of a replacement or substitute that would be cool. I used to be an electronics guy, but haven't messed with this stuff in years. I am sure I have forgotten more than I retained over the years.

 

[JonUrban]

Thanks again to all for all of the advice and help. Here are some more pictures and a few questions.

First off, it appears the SOURCE/TAPE switch was the main issue with both machines, as after removal and cleaning, both machines are now playing back tapes fine. I ran the Project3 Test Tape through both machines monitoring with headphones and all 4 channels are responding fine. I was a bit concerned as the levels were not perfect on playback on Machine #2, but when I played the reel on Machine #1 the channels behaved almost the same, so I would figure the tape has lost some of it's "punch".

Since this is probably a very common problem with AKAI 630D-SS and 270D-SS machines, I have added a few more pictures of the switch just for future members reference.

Here is a look at the switch "in place" from the back. You have to remove the side panel (very easy to do, but you'll need a #1 Phillips for the gold screws) to get at the back of the switch. This picture is with the side panel removed

Here is the switch from Machine #2, ready to be blasted with D5

 

[JonUrban]

Here is a look at the 630D-SS heads. They need a bit more cleaning. This is Machine #2

And here is a look at the electronics at the base (bottom) of the unit. For those that like this vintage retro electrical ****.
(Note: The unit is on its side, this is the bottom)

 

[JonUrban]

Hi Jon...got myself some deoxit as "cleaning oil", what do you have for "Rubber restorer"? (will venture into my TT soon...)

For the Kap'n, here is what I have for head cleaner and rubber restorer. I have no clue what it really is or if it's still any good, but I bought it on eBay back in the '00's.

 

[JonUrban]

And now my question for you experts out there (You know who you are). The Capstan looks a bit tattered. (Yucky!) What is the proper procedure to clean this thing? Or is it best to leave it. I tried using the head cleaner but it doesn't seen to do much. It does make the Q-Tip brown but I don't see a lot of debris removal on the capstan. Is there a Deoxit product that would work?

 

[The Bushmaster]

Isopropyl alcohol 91% If that doesn't get it. Get some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper from an auto parts store. Wall-mart may even have some. With the capstan running hold the 600 grit body paper (wet/dry to the running capstan.

 

[JonUrban]

Isopropyl alcohol 91% If that doesn't get it. Get some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper from an auto parts store. Wall-mart may even have some. With the capstan running hold the 600 grit body paper (wet/dry to the running capstan.

Thanks Bushmaster!

I read quite a few places where they say NOT to use sandpaper. I checked the other machine, which is my original, and the capstan is in much better shape, so I am probably going to use that one as my functional unit going forward. I don't think I would have to worry about sanding this one.

Here's that capstan. It's not perfect, but it's better than the first machine.

 

[JonUrban]

One more check before I do it. The level adjustment pots are easily accessible from the bottom when the unit is out of its wood case. So just to be sure, I just take that can of Fader F5, stick it in the little openings of these pots and blast it in there, then move the pots back and forth. Right?

(Sorry for being a moron, I just would prefer verification)

 

[The Bushmaster]

Keep in mind that 600 grit wet/dry body paper is so fine the it will even put a shine on your finger nails. It will literally polish that capstan.

 

[quadsearcher]

Some capstans have a less-than-shiny surface by design. Not a great idea as far as collecting grime, but that's what they were. An eraser can clean that off without changing the surface, like a pencil eraser, or better is an ink eraser. Or my favorite, a typewriter eraser that can be sharpened like a pencil and the end snipped so it is flat. Those are getting hard to find in good condition. Have the deck running with no tape (tie or hold the lever up that switches motors on/off) and "erase" the oxide. Don't have to push too hard with it running. A lot of eraser bits to vacuum up though.

The capstan still might be shiny in the tape path area after a good deal of use, even tape is abrasive.

 

[Hamilton59]

One more check before I do it. The level adjustment pots are easily accessible from the bottom when the unit is out of its wood case. So just to be sure, I just take that can of Fader F5, stick it in the little openings of these pots and blast it in there, then move the pots back and forth. Right?

(Sorry for being a moron, I just would prefer verification)

That’s correct Jon. It’s the same procedure as the switches earlier except you’re using the F5 for the carbon trace in the faders.

And I agree with the alcohol and swabs for cleaning the capstan and pinch rollers. You should be able to put the unit in “play” without using a tape by pushing in switches etc to fake the deck into thinking a tape is in place so that the capstan and pinch rollers will spin. Then you can hold the wet swab against the spinning capstan and let it scrub the old tape junk off of the shaft. The same with the pinch roller.
David