Thanks for the link Bushmaster! I just ordered some 12v bulbs, enough so that I could screw some up!
Cleaning up the Akai GX-630D-SS QR2R - Oh My!
- Thread starter JonUrban
- Start date
Help Support QuadraphonicQuad:
Thanks for the link Bushmaster! I just ordered some 12v bulbs, enough so that I could screw some up!
Hi Duncan, if your link is different than vintage-electronics.net , could you please post it? I also have a 630DSS but the play head is losing channel 1. My tech "repaired" it but warned me there was no warranty as it was a fluke that he got it to work for a while.
Jon, I have used a green scrubbie and alcohol to clean the capstan when Q-Tips or alcohol wipes don't cut it. In extreme cases I have gently used a sharp blade to scrape off the hardened gunk. Both of the capstans you showed us are way beyond what I would play even a test tape on. The capstan should be silver and shiny from chassis to top. It will affect your speed as well. I wonder if your machines might benefit from new tires. They are available on evilBay. There shouldn't be any residue on the capstan except where the tape path is.
So it IS possible to get a new capstan that will work in this machine on eBay. Do you know of a seller or should I just search for Akai GX-630D-SS capstan. I somehow don't think that will work, but I'll give it a shot.
The rubber is the pinch roller and is replaceable. The motor shaft is the capstan and isn't replaceable without a new motor. Here is a link to an expensive replacement. This is a cheaper alternative to just replace the tire. I am surprised that there are so many Akai pinch roller types out there. I don't ever remember having to worry about size or type before. Another option that some have used successfully (not I, YMMV) is to soak in DOT 5 brake fluid over night or longer. One user on Vinyl Engine swears by this for even his CPAP masks.
Thanks for the links. The tire parts don't worry me as much as the capstans. I do remember at one time they were shiny and smooth all the way up and down. Can't recall how they ever got this way. I wasn't paying attention obviously.
This machine does have a speed (pitch) adjustment pot on the front, so maybe I can try the 600 or 1200 grit stuff on the shaft of that capstan and see if it does something if the repeated alcohol baths don't.
This machine does have a speed (pitch) adjustment pot on the front, so maybe I can try the 600 or 1200 grit stuff on the shaft of that capstan and see if it does something if the repeated alcohol baths don't.
Before going as far as using grit, try some acetone (nail polish remover) on a cotton puff. It will melt plastic sticks from Q-Tips. Even Varsol before acetone perhaps. Just use enough to wet, not enough to run into the bearings. There should be a polished chrome surface under that gunk. I prefer to save the abrasives for last.
This was the link I found ages ago when looking for spares for my Akai (4000DS & GX635D) it appears to search eBay
Akai GX-630D Reel to Reel – 4 Front Metal Faceplate Cover Screws – Genuine Parts • $12.00
I sent them in the end to a specialist not that far away from me in the UK, I am what my old teacher called a "woodwork butcher", I hate to think what the metal work one thought! Electronics is my thing, mechanics I don't use enough force as I'm scared of damaging, then I use too much, so more expensive repairs if I touch things
Not boring at all! It was the first 4-track I ever owned and used in my music. I modified mine so that I could bounce and combine tracks without having to go into quadra-sync mode. Hope you are enjoying restoring yours!
Amin
Amin
Attachments
Jon, in some machines the capstan is a sleeve over a motor post....If thats the case in your Akai, you should be able to remove it.....Then maybe let it it soak in a bowl of your favorite cleaner/chemical....If you have access to a ultrasonic cleaner, pop it in that for a bit....I would be hesitant using any sandpaper...it would remove the gunk for sure, but you could increase wow and flutter by irregular sanding the capstan
I remember when I was in Junior High or somewhere around 66-67, I had a Panasonic 5" Reel to Reel. One of the things I remember about it was that it had a removable capstan sleeve that you either had on of off to change the speed of the recording, from 1 7/8 ips to 3 3/4 ips. I remember I lost it and had to order another, which is probably why I remember it at all. Not that this has anything to do with the Akai, but it's just one of those dangling memories that you tend to remember when you're trying to remember what happened yesterday!
Mike, I will check that out but I don't believe this one comes off, but again, I have no clue! Good thought, though.
The small bulb visible below the meter is likely blown. I replaced one on mine many years ago.
Alcohol has always worked on mine.
The Bushmaster
600 Club - QQ All-Star
Just thought of this. You might try a teflon pad (greenie) and alcohol with the capstan running.
Well, my adventure with this project has come to a miserable screeching halt. I did get one machine (my original) to have a fairly clean capstan and 4 functioning meter lights, but now I am having serious motor issues. The machine does not go to speed right off, it sort of starts out fast then slows down until it gets sort of to speed.
It stalls on rewind/fast forward when the take up reel gets full. It's pretty much got me to the point of just giving up and trying to find someone who knows what the heck they are doing with this thing. There is obviously more wrong than right with it.
It's not like it's life or death to get this thing going, but it was a fun thing to give a shot. Apparently the machine is like me. Old and tired.
If anyone knows a good place for vintage repair of this type of thing in the Southern New England area, please let me know. I might take it to someone, or I might just give up all together.
It stalls on rewind/fast forward when the take up reel gets full. It's pretty much got me to the point of just giving up and trying to find someone who knows what the heck they are doing with this thing. There is obviously more wrong than right with it.
It's not like it's life or death to get this thing going, but it was a fun thing to give a shot. Apparently the machine is like me. Old and tired.
If anyone knows a good place for vintage repair of this type of thing in the Southern New England area, please let me know. I might take it to someone, or I might just give up all together.
Hi Jon, I have had speed issues too. There are two main causes. Mine was a dirty speed selector. Same fix as you did on the monitor switch. The other is more involved but not a big deal if you can solder and have access to the motor capacitors either by buying online or if you are lucky to find them locally. There will be one biggish electrolytic capacitor for each of the reel hub motors and failure in indicated by loss of torque on fast wing. The originals tend to dry out after 40+ years and through heavy winding sesions. I caused the caps to spout off toxic steam (a safety feature?) after winding through a bunch of sticky old Ampex reels. The deck still worked but winding torque was lacking.
Being a Reel-to-Reel fanatic, and an Electronics Engineer I couldn't help myself and found the service manual. I'd hate to see a R2R going to the scrap heap!
Jon can you purchase from Digi-Key?
It looks like C1 is the 160V 470uF Electrolytic
One of these should be OK, but I suspect that the modern ones are a lot smaller now: 470uF @ 160V
The other capacitor, C4, is non-polarised as its for AC and I suspect its Metalised Polypropylene. It is associated with the 50Hz/60Hz switch. As the USA is 60Hz the capacitor that is actually used is 1.5uF at 150V, the 3.5uF is out of circuit. So this should be easier to find a replacement for as its only a single value.
One of these metallised poly capacitor should be Ok, choose one thats close in dimensions 1.5uF @ 160V AC
Jon can you purchase from Digi-Key?
It looks like C1 is the 160V 470uF Electrolytic
One of these should be OK, but I suspect that the modern ones are a lot smaller now: 470uF @ 160V
The other capacitor, C4, is non-polarised as its for AC and I suspect its Metalised Polypropylene. It is associated with the 50Hz/60Hz switch. As the USA is 60Hz the capacitor that is actually used is 1.5uF at 150V, the 3.5uF is out of circuit. So this should be easier to find a replacement for as its only a single value.
One of these metallised poly capacitor should be Ok, choose one thats close in dimensions 1.5uF @ 160V AC
Link to Hi-Fi Engine for Akai GX-630D-SS
Thanks Duncan. I actually did sign up today and download the maintenance manual from HiFi Engine! (Great minds?)
I also found that the second cap for the motors was not the black 470 micro farad cap I put in the photo, it's a larger '4 in one' cap you can see in the diagram below (C5):
It appears that the different sizes of capacitance are to compensate for either 50 or 60 Hz electrical power. I suppose I will have to get something like fan motor caps of the proper size to replace these.
Today I started tracing out the wires by color as the schematics do not indicate wire color, and they go all over the place!
So, again, thanks for the effort. I really appreciate that. I will give it a shot and see if it helps. Apparently these motors are very reliable, and from what I've gathered from Google searching the issues, the caps are generally the issue with these Akai's, along with a transistor and some diodes as a second step.
I also found that the second cap for the motors was not the black 470 micro farad cap I put in the photo, it's a larger '4 in one' cap you can see in the diagram below (C5):
It appears that the different sizes of capacitance are to compensate for either 50 or 60 Hz electrical power. I suppose I will have to get something like fan motor caps of the proper size to replace these.
Today I started tracing out the wires by color as the schematics do not indicate wire color, and they go all over the place!
So, again, thanks for the effort. I really appreciate that. I will give it a shot and see if it helps. Apparently these motors are very reliable, and from what I've gathered from Google searching the issues, the caps are generally the issue with these Akai's, along with a transistor and some diodes as a second step.
Last edited:
Similar threads
