Sanyo DC6100K Manual ?

[jipop]

Hello to all in the Forum my First Post!

DC6100K

I have just picked up a Sanyo DC6100K all in one here in Australia- for a few dollars - its not in working condition (fuse blown) and so far working my way through the Power supply electronics...yet it would be very handy to find a Manual - even a user manual may have the Schematic.
Im finding the power switching illogical and would really like to check switching path from reference.

Please would anyone have a manual they could share!?

Thanks in Advance

 

[barfle]

First, welcome to the boards! I can’t give you any good news about documentation, but from the vintage of it, I’d be surprised if it’s not a fairly standard class AB amplifier.

I hope you have a variac or similar and an oscilloscope to power it up slowly and check how things function at low power. Best of luck with your quest! It should be rewarding.

 

[jipop]

Thanks for the welcome barfle!
I have found manuals for other Sanyo models of that era which are helpful .. however one thing I’m trying to resolve at the moment is the power on/off switching and how my unit switches the neutral not the live- not sure if that is meant to be or if it’s someone has been in there. It didn’t help that the live neutral plug wiring was found to be reversed!.. so a confusing picture that a schematic would help clear up.

Was switching the neutral to de-energise a receiver the way it was done back then ?!

Cheers

 

[par4ken]

It would be better to de-energise the hot wire rather than the neutral. I don't know about Australia but the North American power cables used back in the seventies were non-polarised so it really didn't matter which way it was wired-up.

 

[jipop]

It would be better to de-energise the hot wire rather than the neutral. I don't know about Australia but the North American power cables used back in the seventies were non-polarised so it really didn't matter which way it was wired-up.

Agree that is the way I was always taught! The Australian Sanyo DC6100K and DC8500K 'all in ones' are both wired similarly as below. Assume part of the reason is that the Turntable they used was a 120V/Motor.. they have used a multitap Primary from the receiver to power the turntable.
Remembering that Australian Native voltage is 240V. So there is no fuse or switch on the Live side.

I'm waiting on a Turntable belt to confirm operation - Im expecting the turntable may run without operating the Receiver on/off switch...looking at the circuit of the Turntable ..when the arm is at rest then the Receiver and Turntable are off.. when arm moves then turntable will rotate - will this then also power the receiver?

Fixing progress - the unit now powers up and both channels are working...inputs are working except for FM...where you can hear hiss but no channel can be picked up even with an FM Antenna. I changed out the Rectifier diodes and PS Electrolytic Capacitors.

I also found that the Arc suppressors across power switch and also Turntable Switch were dead shorted...need to source some replacements.

Currently the unit is wired as below - ideally I would change it to switch the live as per safe/conventional practices of today - however the sticking point is the 120V Turntable supply needed. Shout out and thanks to Tom for the DC8500K manual

 

[watsontr]

It’s much safer to switch the active at the source as you know. As it is, essentially everything is ‘live’ as soon as you plug it in. If the heat sinks or chassis are earthed, you could get a nasty bite if not careful!

 

[jipop]

It’s much safer to switch the active at the source as you know. As it is, essentially everything is ‘live’ as soon as you plug it in. If the heat sinks or chassis are earthed, you could get a nasty bite if not careful!

Yep Agree Tom totally - if anything breaks down then potential fire or safety hazard. Id like to understand what the logic was.

 

[jipop]

Pondering my thoughts are they perhaps wired 'switching neutral on the receivers on/off switch' to be able to accommodate a 120v supply/and control for the Turntable as its supply is coming off the primary transformer from a multitap. Id prefer to supply the turntable externally but would need a 240 to 120v step down transformer.

 

[barfle]

Agree that is the way I was always taught! The Australian Sanyo DC6100K and DC8500K 'all in ones' are both wired similarly as below. Assume part of the reason is that the Turntable they used was a 120V/Motor.. they have used a multitap Primary from the receiver to power the turntable.
Remembering that Australian Native voltage is 240V. So there is no fuse or switch on the Live side.

I'm waiting on a Turntable belt to confirm operation - Im expecting the turntable may run without operating the Receiver on/off switch...looking at the circuit of the Turntable ..when the arm is at rest then the Receiver and Turntable are off.. when arm moves then turntable will rotate - will this then also power the receiver?

Fixing progress - the unit now powers up and both channels are working...inputs are working except for FM...where you can hear hiss but no channel can be picked up even with an FM Antenna. I changed out the Rectifier diodes and PS Electrolytic Capacitors.

I also found that the Arc suppressors across power switch and also Turntable Switch were dead shorted...need to source some replacements.

Currently the unit is wired as below - ideally I would change it to switch the live as per safe/conventional practices of today - however the sticking point is the 120V Turntable supply needed. Shout out and thanks to Tom for the DC8500K manual
View attachment 86721

I would wire the turntable to the 120V tap on the transformer and have the voltage switch control what tap the mains uses. That’s an odd circuit, to be sure.

 

[MidiMagic]

With 240 volts, there is usually no neutral. There are two hot wires.

In that diagram, one side is switched to feed different taps on the transformer and the other has the two-way switch so the record changer can turn the amp on and shut it off. The amp and the record changer run at 100 volts (northern Japan line voltage).

 

[par4ken]

With 240 volts, there is usually no neutral. There are two hot wires.

In that diagram, one side is switched to feed different taps on the transformer and the other has the two-way switch so the record changer can turn the amp on and shut it off. The amp and the record changer run at 100 volts (northern Japan line voltage).

I'm no expert on Australian power distribution or wiring but internet sources show one side of the power plug as neutral, colour coded blue.
Despite being single phase one side must be connected to ground inside the electrical panel, making the other the hot wire.

 

[jipop]

With 240 volts, there is usually no neutral. There are two hot wires.

In that diagram, one side is switched to feed different taps on the transformer and the other has the two-way switch so the record changer can turn the amp on and shut it off. The amp and the record changer run at 100 volts (northern Japan line voltage).

Normally here in Australia the Neutral and Earth are Bonded within a Domestic Supply Installation

So with this system if a fault occurs and the Fuse Blows (located in the Neutral line)...we still have Active/Hot Voltage Potential within the unit...whereby that potential could find an alternate path to ground...then if your earthing is good enough..you might not immediately notice...but if it is not it would bite you through the metal chassis or components.

I think also the situation has more potential to damage more of the units internals.

So in this switching design earthing of Chassis and Metal components is absolutely essential to stop shock potential and also to appropriately operate any Earth Leakage Safety...such as an RCD Breaker in the Distribution Board, common in Australian Homes.

One specific earthing issue I have noted with this Sanyo system - the turntable is a metal chassis but it is has no Earthing Conductor/Connection...so has the potential to shock if a fault occurs.! I will change that.

Im thinking I might install a DPST Fused IEC Plug in the rear of the unit...and use it to power on/off the unit.

 

[par4ken]

This discussion made me think about those old tube type radio and TV's that had a hot chassis. Manufactures saved a bit of money by dispensing with the power transformer. Tube filaments were simply wired in series. I used to remove the chassis from the case to tweek the slugs on the radios IF transformers to better pull in those weak distant radio stations. Not really a problem when the radio was in my bedroom but when in the basement and I was in sock or even bare feet on the concrete floor I would often get a rude awakening!

The use of a polarised plug could have made that old equipment much safer. Electrical safety tends to evolve and develop as time goes on.

 

[Sonik Wiz]

This discussion made me think about those old tube type radio and TV's that had a hot chassis. Manufactures saved a bit of money by dispensing with the power transformer. Tube filaments were simply wired in series. I used to remove the chassis from the case to tweek the slugs on the radios IF transformers to better pull in those weak distant radio stations. Not really a problem when the radio was in my bedroom but when in the basement and I was in sock or even bare feet on the concrete floor I would often get a rude awakening!

The use of a polarised plug could have made that old equipment much safer. Electrical safety tends to evolve and develop as time goes on.

Yup. In the lower 48 they were called All American Five radios. When this type of clock radio was in my bed headboard, I heard for the first time Black Sabbath. It shocked me.

 

[jipop]

Remote Control - Anyone had one or got one now ? What could you do with it ? Assume it was a wired remote!

 

[barfle]

With no more information than the picture of the connector, I’d venture a guess that it’s contact closures. I worked with a handful of VCRs that worked that way over the years. I’d start with a digital voltmeter with the negative connected to a chassis point, then see what voltages are on the various pins. I’d expect, if I’m right about the contact closures, that one or two pins would show 0V, and the others around 12V. If so, then I’d try briefly connecting one of the 12V pins to one of the 0V pins and see what happened. If you’re paranoid, use a 100 Ohm or so resistor to make the connection. Then build a box with the appropriate number of buttons on it and sit back on the sofa.

Of course, the tests may show something entirely different, but I think that vintage gear probably wouldn’t be much more sophisticated than that.

Your project sounds like it would be very interesting and a lot of fun for a techy geek like me!

 

[jipop]

I recall seeing that kind of connector/socket before but I cannot recall what type that is...need a plug to fit and then I could break out a cable for testing and making up a test box. I guess you could marry this up to a relay bank and infrared control receiver chip...Perish the thought!

Ive not been able to find any further info online - I guess it would be covered in the DC6100K Manual...I am still trying hard to find a copy! Will do some digging with the multimeter! Here is an example of a Quad Remote Control back in the day - Fisher Quad Remote QC400.


Quad Receiver - Remote Control QC-400 Misc Fisher Radio; New

 

[jipop]

Had a look at the back, wiring - it appears as per Fisher QC400 that the Sanyo wired remote would have controlled Vol, Balance - Front - Rear/Left - Right...so it had rotary / slider pot controls or combo.

 

[MidiMagic]

I built one of those from a Radio Shack analog joystick. It made four voltage dividers to set the volume for each channel.

 

[barfle]

Had a look at the back, wiring - it appears as per Fisher QC400 that the Sanyo wired remote would have controlled Vol, Balance - Front - Rear/Left - Right...so it had rotary / slider pot controls or combo.

Like I said, not much information on what’s on the ither side of the cinnector or what’s on its mate, so I’m not surprised that there’s analog controls available. I’ve run across a few remotes that had discrete resistors that made various voltage levels that made certain functions occur, but, well, I forget just what.