Converting an older Receiver with spring loaded speaker terminals to RCA?

[jimfisheye]

I get it. I been around a few years. lol. Old folks got stories.

Ok, I'll share one. Did you know that a mixing board with a power supply for US 120V will run on 220V for about 30 minutes with no issues before the electrolytic capacitors finally start going off like firecrackers?

Apparently you can just use the same US style power outlets for both on an air force base and there aren't rules. I mean, it's still operator error! Just sayin. (A very brief Armed Forces Entertainment experience.)
And then I'm going to guess that the not powering on bass amp on that stage had the same experience from the last group that came through.

"Just label it. It should be fine."

 

[Owen Smith]

"Just label it. It should be fine."

I have a socket for a table lamp in my lounge that comes on with the ceiling light on the light switch. It's a 6A circuit like most lighting circuits in the UK. To prevent anyone plugging a UK 13A plug in (with the rectangular pins) and overloading the circuit I fitted an old style 5A three round pins UK socket for the table lamp. You can still buy those sockets brand new in the UK, largely for this purpose.

 

[mandrix]

I have a socket for a table lamp in my lounge that comes on with the ceiling light on the light switch. It's a 6A circuit like most lighting circuits in the UK. To prevent anyone plugging a UK 13A plug in (with the rectangular pins) and overloading the circuit I fitted an old style 5A three round pins UK socket for the table lamp. You can still buy those sockets brand new in the UK, largely for this purpose.

You guys use a separate 6A circuit for lighting?

 

[Owen Smith]

You guys use a separate 6A circuit for lighting?

Yes, the UK has been like that for at least 100 years. Before WWII we had radial 5A and 15A circuits for round pin sockets (with earths) and separate 5A lighting circuits. Post WWII on new build or re-wired houses we have 30A ring circuits that go round all the sockets and then back to the fuse box to save copper due to shortages. The lights were on separate 5A circuits that went to each switch. Generally there is one lighting circuit and one ring circuit for sockets per floor of the house ie 2 of each for a 2 floor house, but that's a gross generalisation. When fuses were replaced with circuit breakers the currents were uprated to 6A and 32A. Electric cookers have their own dedicated radial circuit, originally 30A now 32A. Obviously there is huge variation from this in practice, but separate lighting circuits from the sockets is universal and mandated by regulations.

 

[mandrix]

Yes, the UK has been like that for at least 100 years. Before WWII we had radial 5A and 15A circuits for round pin sockets (with earths) and separate 5A lighting circuits. Post WWII on new build or re-wired houses we have 30A ring circuits that go round all the sockets and then back to the fuse box to save copper due to shortages. The lights were on separate 5A circuits that went to each switch. Generally there is one lighting circuit and one ring circuit for sockets per floor of the house ie 2 of each for a 2 floor house, but that's a gross generalisation. When fuses were replaced with circuit breakers the currents were uprated to 6A and 32A. Electric cookers have their own dedicated radial circuit, originally 30A now 32A. Obviously there is huge variation from this in practice, but separate lighting circuits from the sockets is universal and mandated by regulations.

When you say "radial circuit" you are saying all outlets are either 6A or 32A, and each is on a single breaker covering each floor? I'm not understanding here.
I guess the cable is terminated at the end of run, and picks up all the outlets in between, for a single floor, rather than separate cable runs for larger areas?
It's common here (or was) to run 15A runs to cover a given area on a single breaker, could be several rooms. Then 30-80A runs for appliances such as electric stoves, A/C, how water heaters, etc.
A 32A circuit would not even run my heat pump. (well start it anyway)
IDK, not an electrician!
I have run several 20A GFCI circuits in my shop (big air compressor, etc) and made some "two switch" circuits for lights, etc. but I would not call myself an expert.

 

[mandrix]

Well today another rearrangement. Adjusted shelving and moving the big center speaker up to make room for the yet to be shipped 4K TV.
Made some space for the telescoping TV mount, then used some 3/8" lag screws to put the mount on a wall stud, other adjustments.
Pretty much whipped and chilling with new Chicago BD and beverage of choice.

Speaker binding posts came today for the Receiver. Another project for tomorrow.

 

[Owen Smith]

When you say "radial circuit" you are saying all outlets are either 6A or 32A, and each is on a single breaker covering each floor? I'm not understanding here.

A radial circuit goes from the fuse box (or breaker box) to the socket and that's it, or it may go on to one other socket. Like spokes radiating from a hub, that's what we used to have for 5A and 15A pre war sockets (that were in plenty of houses for decades after WWII).

For the ceiling lights we always had one 5A fuse (or 6A breaker) per floor, and it goes to each light in turn via the switch. Post WWII there are no sockets on the lighting circuits (unless it's a special one just for lamps), it's more complicated pre war.

For the ring main for 13A sockets, the wire starts at the fusebox, goes to the first socket, then the second, then the third, and so on until at the last socket it goes back to the fusebox. So the power to any socket goes both ways round the ring. Some people hate this as a broken ring still appears to work but the cables will be overloaded, personally I think the risk is way over rated.

A 32A circuit would not even run my heat pump. (well start it anyway)

This is all 240V remember.

I have run several 20A GFCI circuits in my shop (big air compressor, etc) and made some "two switch" circuits for lights, etc. but I would not call myself an expert.

I've rewired two entire properties 30 years ago. The regulations have changed twice since then so I'm out of date. Also now you can't touch your own wiring legally in the fusebox, you have to get someone qualified to do it (even if they're an idiot).

 

[MidiMagic]

I have a Sherwood with those connectors. Nothing works in those like stranded wire.

Many new pieces of equipment can work on either 120 V or 240 V because they have special power supplies.

 

[barfle]

I hope sometime this summer to build an A/V rack. I was going to move my old audio cabinet out of the living room but it's a tad too wide. The advantage to using the old one is because I basically rebuilt some of it years ago, put in a new backing and cut out holes for ventilation fans. It was once part of a big entertainment center but as tv's got bigger it just wasn't feasible to use any more.

Should I run out of things to do, one mistake I made in my shelving was to make the first set of shelves 19” wide, which matches up with professional racks, but is a bit cramped. Widening it would mean tearing out all the rest of the shelves ans moving them them the three inches it would take to make the shelves 24”. On the other hand, splitting the difference would mean making all new shelves for the equipment bays.

I’m going to have to get really bored for that to happen.

 

[barfle]

Ok, I'll share one. Did you know that a mixing board with a power supply for US 120V will run on 220V for about 30 minutes with no issues before the electrolytic capacitors finally start going off like firecrackers?

Apparently you can just use the same US style power outlets for both on an air force base and there aren't rules. I mean, it's still operator error! Just sayin. (A very brief Armed Forces Entertainment experience.)
And then I'm going to guess that the not powering on bass amp on that stage had the same experience from the last group that came through.

"Just label it. It should be fine."

Been there! I found an outlet strip in a rack that wasn’t labeled, (like any of them were) and plugged a mixer into it. Smoke started coming out a minute or so later. Surprisingly, it still worked after that. I stuck a piece of white electrical tape on the strip with “220V” written in sharpie, but I haven’t been there for a decade now. I might wonder, but that doesn’t mean I give a rip.

 

[mandrix]

A radial circuit goes from the fuse box (or breaker box) to the socket and that's it, or it may go on to one other socket. Like spokes radiating from a hub, that's what we used to have for 5A and 15A pre war sockets (that were in plenty of houses for decades after WWII).

For the ceiling lights we always had one 5A fuse (or 6A breaker) per floor, and it goes to each light in turn via the switch. Post WWII there are no sockets on the lighting circuits (unless it's a special one just for lamps), it's more complicated pre war.

For the ring main for 13A sockets, the wire starts at the fusebox, goes to the first socket, then the second, then the third, and so on until at the last socket it goes back to the fusebox. So the power to any socket goes both ways round the ring. Some people hate this as a broken ring still appears to work but the cables will be overloaded, personally I think the risk is way over rated.

This is all 240V remember.

I've rewired two entire properties 30 years ago. The regulations have changed twice since then so I'm out of date. Also now you can't touch your own wiring legally in the fusebox, you have to get someone qualified to do it (even if they're an idiot).

I did indeed forget you guys were on 240V!

So 7,680 watts. Not sure that would start my heat pump though. Run it after startup, sure. But there is an add-on kit for A/C & Heat pumps for situations where you need to fire one up on a possibly undersized generator. IOW your generator has enough output to easily run the unit but not quite enough to start it. Can't remember what they are called offhand.

 

[mandrix]

OK here's looking at the spring speaker terminals from the inside.
I confess I'm a little lost here as the setup does not look familiar.

I am going to make an assumption that the leads are soldered on the other side of the board. I really don't want to pull everything out.
There is a retaining clip on the left side of the pic of the 4 speaker array, not really showing up good in the pic except the top part.

The terminal to the extreme left in the picture is the Center speaker output.

Unless someone is familiar with this type of setup, I guess I'll have to otherwise clip the terminals, pull the terminal board out of the unit and proceed with making the banana clip mounting plate.
If my assumptions about being soldered on the bottom of the board are wrong, tell me what you think.

 

[Owen Smith]

Seems very likely those are soldered into the PCB.

 

[SeeMoreDigital]

Somehow I've missed this topic altogether!

So, what do the speaker terminals on your Sherwood RD6105 currently look like?

 

[mandrix]

Somehow I've missed this topic altogether!

So, what do the speaker terminals on your Sherwood RD6105 currently look like?

Those spring type. It's an old receiver, no banana plugs.

 

[SeeMoreDigital]

So not like these then: -

 

[mandrix]

So not like these then: -

View attachment 112377

No. Same model apparently but not with banana plugs.

 

[SeeMoreDigital]

No. Same model apparently but not with banana plugs.

I wonder why Sherwood would offer the same model with two different types of speaker connectors!?

Personally I prefer 'flat' binding posts so I can use spade connectors on the end of my speaker cables (as I'm not a fan of banana plugs).

The amplifiers, speakers and speaker leads I send out to events are fitted with 'idiot proof' Speakon connectors

 

[mandrix]

I wonder why Sherwood would offer the same model with two different types of speaker connectors!?

SMD, I'm asking myself that same question. Must have been an option on the same model.

I bought this from a chain store going out of business many years ago. No box, no remote. But the price was right. It became part of my pc sound system for years.

I could use spade lugs of course on these binding posts I bought, but I prefer good quality banana plugs. It's not like anyone else is going to be touching it.

I don't see any problem with clipping the leads, remove the mounting plate, and running a jumper wire to the banana plugs, shrink wrap it if need be.
Should be able to bend those leads back some to allow room for the binding posts. MAYBE can work it out to solder those leads right to the tab on the binding posts. We'll see.

But it may have to wait until I can get to my shop to fab a mounting plate. Having a major hip problem and my shop is a little walk.

 

[barfle]

OK here's looking at the spring speaker terminals from the inside.
I confess I'm a little lost here as the setup does not look familiar.

I am going to make an assumption that the leads are soldered on the other side of the board. I really don't want to pull everything out.
There is a retaining clip on the left side of the pic of the 4 speaker array, not really showing up good in the pic except the top part.

The terminal to the extreme left in the picture is the Center speaker output.

Unless someone is familiar with this type of setup, I guess I'll have to otherwise clip the terminals, pull the terminal board out of the unit and proceed with making the banana clip mounting plate.
If my assumptions about being soldered on the bottom of the board are wrong, tell me what you think.

View attachment 112373

I have high confidence that those terminals are soldered to the board. If it were me, I would unsolder them and solder jumper wires to the pads freed up by the unsoldering. Those jumpers would go to your new binding post/banana plugs. I’d use the largest guage wire you’re comfortable with. Solid wire should be fine, as there shouldn’t be any flexing once you’re done with the project.