Power amp purchase
- Thread starter GOS
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Thanks for your reply S. Wiz. You're right, I need to list my equip in my profile. In the meantime, for my new set-up, here's what it will comprise:
cd/blu-ray player > SM v3 > Yamaha MVS-1 multi-channel passive vol control/source switch box > 4-channel power amp & Cambridge Minx 210X sub > 4 Polk Signature S50 speakers. Notice I'm using no active pre-amp/equalizer. This system is strictly for matrix-quad analog music play.
AND you want the sweet sound of transparency when you want to blow the walls down. I had a wonderful Denon, upgraded from a previous model. I gained HMDI, went from 5.1 to 7.1 inc/outs, and went from 100w per chan to 110w per chan, but with it came a brittle digital sound that was ruining my vinyl listening in particular. The digital stuff was coming in from an Oppo (analog) and it sounded pretty darn good, but that phono pre in this was a deal breaker. So it's going off to Craig's List soon. I think that the DACs in this AVR were poorly implemented and the phono in/out was being digitized sadly.
Got a Yamaha (used) with the same specs, and I got back the sweet sound of transparency, and vinyl is smooth as silk. I later found reviews on the Denon with same complaints (or bad reviews), an icky top end that bugged people.
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It varies between models not just between manufacturers. Denon have good and bad, just like others. You really have to test a specific model or look for reviews of the specific model. Don't presume all models are equal for a manufacturer.
I thought that this is what I just said. I ended up with the wrong Denon (a previous Denon model was fine, but no HDMI), that was all. And got a yammy and it's a fine model. Why are you telling me not to presume? I never presumed that any model is going to rock my world. I'm always skeptical.
TVB
400 Club - QQ All-Star
I need a 4ch amp and you have me looking at an Emotiva. I'm interested in how your 5 ch amp sounds, so I'll be watching with great interest
Fine. Require.
Point is that amps don't send more power than required.
I would be more concerned with underpowering speakers...
My setup requires 7 channels. Most of my listening is of stereo records. At this point I use a Sherbourn power amplifier and the plan is to get in the future a high quality stereo amp for the front channels. I believe at this point a transparent and detailed amp would be a good match.
That would give me two spare channels in the Sherbourn and a better experience of the main channels.
Yes, there would be a mismatch between the main and the rest of the speakers, but I can live with that and I doubt it would be noticeable in the real world.
If I would be in a start-from-zero situation, I would get a 5/3 channel amplifier (for example, Emotiva) and a better one for the L&R.
That would give me two spare channels in the Sherbourn and a better experience of the main channels.
Yes, there would be a mismatch between the main and the rest of the speakers, but I can live with that and I doubt it would be noticeable in the real world.
If I would be in a start-from-zero situation, I would get a 5/3 channel amplifier (for example, Emotiva) and a better one for the L&R.
Hey Gene! A couple of other less discussed amplifier specs is still worth checking out.
1. You've probably noticed an amp is rated more power at 4 ohms than 8 ohms. I wont bore you why but in a perfect audio power amplifier it should double every time the connected impedance is halved. In other word an amp rated 100 watts into an 8 ohm load should now be able to generate 200 watts into a 4 ohm load.
Because nothing is perfect in audio 'tronics it will never be that way. But how close an amp comes to delivering on that expectation tells you a lot about it's capabilities. Your amp is made up of individual modular channels each one rated at 300 watts/8 ohms, and 550 watts /4 ohms. This is very, very good. Doing the test all chs driven the outputs would be uniformly lower but the ratio should be about the same.
2. Damping. The nominal impedance of a speaker might be rated at 8 ohms, or 4 ohms, or whatever. But the amplifier also has an output impedance which desirably should be very low compared to the speaker impedance. The ratio between the two is called the damping factor. On your amp it has an excellent damping factor of 500. This spec is often over looked & is more important in big speakers with complex load impedance than small speakers. One of the best explanations I've run across about this is not from a amp MFG'er but from a speaker company. No graphs, no math, still quite good.
https://us.kef.com/blogs/news/damping-factor-explained
At any rate even when you look at the more subtle aspects of the amp you've chosen, everything is quite good!
1. You've probably noticed an amp is rated more power at 4 ohms than 8 ohms. I wont bore you why but in a perfect audio power amplifier it should double every time the connected impedance is halved. In other word an amp rated 100 watts into an 8 ohm load should now be able to generate 200 watts into a 4 ohm load.
Because nothing is perfect in audio 'tronics it will never be that way. But how close an amp comes to delivering on that expectation tells you a lot about it's capabilities. Your amp is made up of individual modular channels each one rated at 300 watts/8 ohms, and 550 watts /4 ohms. This is very, very good. Doing the test all chs driven the outputs would be uniformly lower but the ratio should be about the same.
2. Damping. The nominal impedance of a speaker might be rated at 8 ohms, or 4 ohms, or whatever. But the amplifier also has an output impedance which desirably should be very low compared to the speaker impedance. The ratio between the two is called the damping factor. On your amp it has an excellent damping factor of 500. This spec is often over looked & is more important in big speakers with complex load impedance than small speakers. One of the best explanations I've run across about this is not from a amp MFG'er but from a speaker company. No graphs, no math, still quite good.
https://us.kef.com/blogs/news/damping-factor-explained
At any rate even when you look at the more subtle aspects of the amp you've chosen, everything is quite good!
Just match the levels and only God could hear a difference.
MidiMagic
2K Club - QQ Super Nova
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2010
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- 2,245
Reminds me of a cartoon in an audio magazine. A man is standing in a room that has several holes in the walls. He says "I've duplicated SenSurround!"
My Emotiva arrived after lunch today. In between work phone calls, and staring at the box....I at least got it out of the box. It is by far the finest looking piece of equipment I've ever owned. I mean, wow. It smells like a wet dream. They even sent me an Amp Birth Certificate. LOL! Signed by all the technicians who built it.
It was triple boxed. And, the outer box had handles to lift it on every corner. Awesome.....
Well, I didn't clarify whose wet dream...but you know.That's a good thing???
You rockin' your house's foundation yet?
jhw59
400 Club - QQ All-Star
So I have a 3300 and have to use it with my Klipsch as I am down to one combo set up for all sound. There is no doubt my integrated tube amp (Jolida 1501RC with Brimar tubes which I'm ready to sell as I can't use it) produced a less fatiguing listen at all volumes levels so I find this thread of interest. I looked at Anthem but could go this way but what do I use as a preamp? I believe using the "pure audio" setting on my Oppo 205 does help a bit. Fortunately, I can still use my Jolida cd player for redbook playback.
Wasn't meant to be, just yet. Had an opportunity to go eat some supper with my grandson...and I couldn't pass that up. Hopefully tonight, when I get home from work!
true story. my amps weigh 192 lbs each. I have to get help to move them. nice amps but a royal pain in the arse ( and back ! )
Dang, what are they?
