Show us your gear!

[doctors11]

When I installed cable channel around the walls and fired up the AVR, I was freaking out because the display would show AMP/SPEAKER.
Misinterpreting that as a short I tested every wire with a meter. Then I read the manual......
Every time the AVR's power cable is removed (soft reset) and then powered up again it shows that message.

I'm shopping for cable channel (raceway) now. Which one did you go with?

 

[mandrix]

I'm shopping for cable channel (raceway) now. Which one did you go with?

I bought it at Walmart online. Simplecord cable concealer it's called. It was the widest rectangular raceway I could find. Each box had six 25" pieces and had straight, corner, and T cpnnectors.
If you are meticulous, you can just squeeze in I think 6 pairs of 12 gauge speaker wire.

 

[doctors11]

I bought it at Walmart online. Simplecord cable concealer it's called. It was the widest rectangular raceway I could find. Each box had six 25" pieces and had straight, corner, and T cpnnectors.
If you are meticulous, you can just squeeze in I think 6 pairs of 12 gauge speaker wire.

Thanks. I've been looking at Legrand, D-line and Mono systems. I'll check yours out.

 

[alansanchez86]

The software is free.

It's about maximizing and optimizing the integration of your existing speakers and subs right now.

Yes, like Audessy, once set, you may not touch it again until some significant change occurs.

Thanks, the reason why I said that is because someone I know, a person who might calibrate my HT. nudged me into get the license of DIRAC live

 

[barfle]

I’ll have pictures once all this stuff shows up. I’m getting my first significant upgrade since I built the room, replacing my dear old Marantz 7701 pre-pro with a 7706 (get ‘em while you can - they still have MCH analog audio inputs), which has Atmos capability. I’m also getting an Emotiva 6-channel amp to replace the dear old Akai stereo amp I’ve been using for the rears.

I’ve had ceiling speakers since I built the room, waiting for the day when I could get the hardware to drive them.

My sister is making a quilt that I’ll use both as a aound absorption panel at the right-side reflection point. No idea when that’ll show up, but I’m fabricating some quilt holders for that element.

 

[weekendtoy]

I paid for Audyssey Mult-EQ X to be able to correct only the frequencies below 250/300Hz, and also to use the nice GUI of the software. I did the calibration once as I have not changed the set up since, but it was well worth the money. Room calibration is quite audible if well done and then validated by REW measurements. I would recommend it.

Yea I use the Audyssey App as well. It's only like $20

For music, I set Audyssey to Flat with no DEQ. Like you, I then use the app to further eliminate any room correction over 250Hz.

 

[weekendtoy]

Thanks, the reason why I said that is because someone I know, a person who might calibrate my HT. nudged me into get the license of DIRAC live

I'm not really familiar with DIRAC but understand it's a more powerful version of Audssey. And like REW, I believe it has measurement capabilities so you make changes in DIRAC and then see real time how they affect your frequency response.

 

[AYanguas]

I'm not really familiar with DIRAC but understand it's a more powerful version of Audssey. And like REW, I believe it has measurement capabilities so you make changes in DIRAC and then see real time how they affect your frequency response.

I'm not familiar neither. Just basic user of Audyssey with the App to set the frequency range of correction apply and to eliminate the Dip.

I've been studing about REW (I have UMIK-1 and tripod since a year) and Ratbuddyssey tool to better adjust the "real" response curve around the bass-management crossover point and setting a custom target curve emphasizing a little the bass and so on. But I have not started yet to calibrate with REW, especially because I'm now without SUB.

It is a tedious process. Auddyssey set the filters but you can only see the "expected" response. With REW you measure the "real" response and adjust in an iterative process.

I think DIRAC live does that in an automatic manner, so it is easier and similar results are obtained with much less effort.

 

[alansanchez86]

I'm not really familiar with DIRAC but understand it's a more powerful version of Audssey. And like REW, I believe it has measurement capabilities so you make changes in DIRAC and then see real time how they affect your frequency response.

Besides levels, distances frequencies, phasing, crossovers, can you also adjust EQ in here?
Or what in specific can you adjust in here?

 

[AYanguas]

Besides levels, distances frequencies, phasing, crossovers, can you also adjust EQ in here?
Or what in specific can you adjust in here?

Of course. Audyssey, and DIRAC too I believe, can set a target response curve level/freq. for each speaker. I.e. that's an EQ for each point of the curve.

Many use the Harman curves that present higher dB at low bass frequencies and emulate some of the EQs that are used also for Headphones. I think of it like a kind of sophisticated customized loudness EQ.

But the most important thing, I think, is to achieve a smooth continuous curve around the crossover point. Because when you only overlap a simple low pass filter of the SUB with a simple high pass filter of the Speaker bass managed, depending on the drops of each filter it can result in a global curve with ripples around the crossover point.