That’s why God invented wire labels.26 pairs???? Good luck keeping track of them.
That’s why God invented wire labels.26 pairs???? Good luck keeping track of them.
See, I was totally happy with my single amp set up, now I'm excited to try a bi-amp set up! $$$$I've bi-amped since the late seventies and would never go back!
I can vouch for that...what a love - hate relationship I have with my Klipsch RF-7's!That is interesting that bi-amping is noticeable because it is my understanding that Klipsch speakers are inherently very efficient beasts.
If I follow you correctly, the cable companies met with the loudspeaker companies, convinced them to increase the cost and complexity of their loudspeakers, so the cable manufacturers would get more money out of people?It was another marketing exercise from the speaker cable manufacturers to get yet more money out of people!
I recall (but never worked with) a speaker system that used "motional feedback." It supposedly had a mirror on the cone and a lamp and sensor that would provide feedback to the amplifier from the actual motion of the cone. I think it died young, but an interesting idea.
I bi-amp my left/right Castle Harlech S1 floorstanders, originally with my Arcam AVR350 and now with my Arcam AVR31. Both AVRs have 7 channels of amplification and I have a 5.0 system, the AVRs have an option to bi-amp L/R so doing this only costs me speaker cable. I don't know if I would bi-amp if I had to buy extra amps to do it. However sound quality definitely improved when I re-cabled for bi-amping L/R, most noticeable on female vocals and solo piano bizarrely.Bi - amping is something else entirely, and as I have never done it I purposely omitted it from the questions, but feel free to post on that also if you wish.
How does this work?I bi-amp my left/right Castle Harlech S1 floorstanders, originally with my Arcam AVR350 and now with my Arcam AVR31. Both AVRs have 7 channels of amplification and I have a 5.0 system, the AVRs have an option to bi-amp L/R so doing this only costs me speaker cable.
There's a configuration option in the AVR for what use the channels 6&7 amps have. They can be: rears, front heights, zone 2, or biamp L+R.How does this work?
That's quite ingenious...There's a configuration option in the AVR for what use the channels 6&7 amps have. They can be: rears, front heights, zone 2, or biamp L+R.
That is really no different than bi-wiring.When set to biamp L+R channels 6&7 output the same as channels 1&2, it doesn't matter which ones you use for the woofers and which for the tweeters. You must however take the shorting links out of the speaker crossovers, otherwise the amps will be driving each other. With the shorting links out on the speaker crossovers, the tweeters are driven through a high pass filter and the woofers through a low pass filter.
The industry disagrees, what I'm doing is what the industry calls bi-amping.That is really no different than bi-wiring.
Given the filter needs to be tailored to the speaker drivers, you are not likely to find that approach in much apart from active speakers.To biamp properly thus getting full benefit the filter network needs to go before the amplifier.
It is clearly audible to me. The tweeter amps are driving very little current. The woofer amps don't have to worry about transients being reproduced by the tweeters.Amplifying the full range signal then feeding a passive filter network and speaker would be of very little benefit.
I bi wired a long time ago for my main left/right and I heard no improvement.I did not hear any gains from bi wiring that I could tell when they were part of my pc audio system, and this was using an AVR for output, not a sound card.
Yeah, I’ve sen a few myself, including a feedback coil. Lots of interesting ideas out there, even if they are impractical. Done a few myself, alas.They call these call servo drivers. There’s a few different schemes for detecting motion and correcting distortion.
I've never heard those terms before, what do they mean please?I find the terms horizontal and vertical bi-amping to be amusing and mostly unnecessary terms.
Where would one purchase an active crossover? That is correctly tailored to the speakers in use? I've never seen such a thing advertised within the domestic hifi scene.If one can afford extra amplifiers why not add an active crossover?