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I’m depending on a memory that’s pretty much stuffed with song lyrics, but as I recall, RG58 was the 75 Ohm standard when I was a kid. There was Rg 59, which was 52 ohms. Maybe that’s backwards. A lot of amateur radio operators used RG8 for theit kilowatt transmitters.

Anyway, RG6 has been the 75 Ohm go-to since at least the 1980s on this side of the pond.
You are right. I had RG-6 on my ham radio.
 
I couple of years ago AT&T "upgraded" our house from ADSL which actually came in over twisted pair copper , to Fiber Optic. I was relatively excited but as is often the case worried that things might not go "as planned".They didn't. I dragged my feet until they actually turned off the ADSL. Then it took them two months to actually get the Fiber Optic installed.

When it works correctly the Fiber Optic internet is quick and snappy.
But it freezes and "buffers" constantly. Extremely annoying. I have had them "let's send you a new router/gateway" twice which never did anything. I have complained to customer service that I am not getting the service I am paying for. Their solution is to offer me to try a faster more expensive service level. I would be willing to do that if they were to include a money back garauntee that it would solve the problem. Sometimes it works well for long enough that may exasperation level goes down some but it really is not acceptable service.
I have ATT fiber. My biggest complaint is that when the power fails, the phones and internet go out too.
 
I have ATT fiber. My biggest complaint is that when the power fails, the phones and internet go out too.
I had Verizon FIOS when it became available when I lived in Virginia. It replaced my copper landline, and with the ridiculous power unreliability, the phone line often went dead.

It replaced dialup Internet, though, so it was definitely a step forward. Maybe a few thousand steps.

But I haven’t had a landline since then - 2018.
 
I have ATT fiber. My biggest complaint is that when the power fails, the phones and internet go out too.
Indeed... After BT/Openreach installed my optical fibre connection, the engineer mentioned that I "could buy a dedicated power supply to keep the router and VoIP phone running for a few hours if the mains power dropped out" but I never bothered looking.

Thankfully, I don't pay 'line rental' for the VoIP phone service. I can't even remember the phone number!
 
Wire nuts are practically required by the US National Electrical Code for connections inside electrical boxes.

I can't imagine what is used if wire nuts are abolished. Terminal strips???
 
Wire nuts are practically required by the US National Electrical Code for connections inside electrical boxes.

I can't imagine what is used if wire nuts are abolished. Terminal strips???
In the UK we've used round hard plastic junction boxes at different ampage ratings, much like this: -

junction box.png



However, things have recently moved on and we're using connectors much like this: -
wago.png

Cheers
 
In the UK we've used round hard plastic junction boxes at different ampage ratings, much like this: -

View attachment 108736


However, things have recently moved on and we're using connectors much like this: -
View attachment 108738
Cheers
I’ve installed dozens of can lights (flush-mounted fixtures with reflector bulbs in them with trim rings) with those multi-wite connectors. They’re fine, unless you make a mistake or need to modify something that already existsw. I’ve cut a few off and used wire nuts instead.
 
I’ve installed dozens of can lights (flush-mounted fixtures with reflector bulbs in them with trim rings) with those multi-wite connectors. They’re fine, unless you make a mistake or need to modify something that already existsw. I’ve cut a few off and used wire nuts instead.
Those must be something different. The point of the Wago connectors SeeMoreDigital showed as the new version in the UK is you can easily undo and redo them as many times as you like with little to no damage to either the wire or the connector. The same cannot be said for our older screw terminal junction boxes, where the wires are chewed by the screw and the screw head can have the slot split if you overly tighten them (I speak from experience sadly). You can even split the entire brass U channel, I've only done that once and it may have been a faulty junction box. I'm not a fan of the old style UK junction boxes, they're a pain in the neck to work with. Arranging the wires within them is an art not a science, it gets harder the more wires you have in one junction box.
 
Those must be something different. The point of the Wago connectors SeeMoreDigital showed as the new version in the UK is you can easily undo and redo them as many times as you like with little to no damage to either the wire or the connector.
Seems likely. The connectors in the can lights are definitely single use. There’s no way to release the wire once it’s inserted into the hole, unless it’s the wrong guage. While I’m pretty careful when doing wiring, the limited light available in the spaces where those connections are being made can make it easy for errors to occur.

Even so, it looks like the contact area is limited, so the current capacity would also be limited. With wire nuts, the wires have about 1-1/4” that are twisted together, then the nut is twisted over that. Most wire nuts have a metallic core that adds to the current carying capability. I’m quite comfortable using them when necessary.

A lot of lights (and fans) are sold with pigtail connections (just a stripped wire) and wire nuts.
 
A lot of lights (and fans) are sold with pigtail connections (just a stripped wire) and wire nuts.
We don't get that in the UK, I'm pretty confident selling consumer products with bare wires is against regulations. There's always some sort of junction box or terminal strip to connect to. If you buy spare parts that's different, those come as they were in the original design.
 
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