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[madscot]

The measurements require a degree of low/no background noise. Otherwise I can do a 9 point calibration in about an hour.
What trips people up sometimes is getting the main and mic gains set up right.
Otherwise you just click on each speaker, let it produce pink noise. It will display the output level in dB.
Once all speakers have been run, then you set all speaker gains to the level of the quitest speaker. Then raise the main gain up 10-15dB or whatever acommodates your system so that all speakers are matched in gain but are loud enough to continue calibrations.

The you move on and select between different types of sitting arrangements: tightly focused, and several larger areas to choose from.
At each mic placement the software will run sweeps and note each speaker's response.
At that point you move on to filter design, where if you want to make any adjustments you can; or merely accept what Dirac produces.
Then the filter or filters can be exported to the AVR.

That's sort of it in a nutshell, and there are plenty of tutorials out there.

Highly recommend using a decent mic that comes with a 90* calibration file, which you can load into Dirac app at the beginning.
Otherwise using the puck mic's and phone apps are functional but not as good.

Sounds easy

 

[barfle]

I had set up my old Marantz 7701 (7.1 capable) using their Audessey system. IIRC, it told me that ine of my front speakers was out of phase, and sure enough, I had miswired one of the XLR connectors that goes to it. All OK for ages.

Setting up my new 7706, it told me that BOTH front speakers were out of phase. Wiring did not change.

Minnie Mouse having an affair.

 

[PK]

The measurements require a degree of low/no background noise. Otherwise I can do a 9 point calibration in about an hour.
What trips people up sometimes is getting the main and mic gains set up right.
Otherwise you just click on each speaker, let it produce pink noise. It will display the output level in dB.
Once all speakers have been run, then you set all speaker gains to the level of the quitest speaker. Then raise the main gain up 10-15dB or whatever acommodates your system so that all speakers are matched in gain but are loud enough to continue calibrations.

The you move on and select between different types of sitting arrangements: tightly focused, and several larger areas to choose from.
At each mic placement the software will run sweeps and note each speaker's response.
At that point you move on to filter design, where if you want to make any adjustments you can; or merely accept what Dirac produces.
Then the filter or filters can be exported to the AVR.

That's sort of it in a nutshell, and there are plenty of tutorials out there.

Highly recommend using a decent mic that comes with a 90* calibration file, which you can load into Dirac app at the beginning.
Otherwise using the puck mic's and phone apps are functional but not as good.

Interesting...8 point Audyssey cal takes me about 20 minutes...even then it's fingers crossed something loud doesn't occur outside...although it will let you repeat the last measurement so as not to start the whole process over again...dog barking, trash truck etc...

 

[ar surround]

I had set up my old Marantz 7701 (7.1 capable) using their Audessey system. IIRC, it told me that ine of my front speakers was out of phase, and sure enough, I had miswired one of the XLR connectors that goes to it. All OK for ages.

Setting up my new 7706, it told me that BOTH front speakers were out of phase. Wiring did not change.

Minnie Mouse having an affair.

Audyssey will tell you when speakers, including a pair, are wired out of phase. The instructions also say to ignore the warning if the wiring of the ‘out of phase’ pair is found to be correct. (However, barfle, it won’t tell you when you have spelled Audyssey incorrectly.)

 

[mandrix]

Interesting...8 point Audyssey cal takes me about 20 minutes...even then it's fingers crossed something loud doesn't occur outside...although it will let you repeat the last measurement so as not to start the whole process over again...dog barking, trash truck etc...

Yes. Dirac Live will notify you if the signal to noise is out of kilter and let you repeat measurements as well.
Something always occurs for me requiring re measurement of one or two mic locations. As you said, dog barking, forget to flip the cell so it doesn't notify me, something. lol.
I usually sit on the floor leaning against something and run the software with a cordless mouse....sometimes I might shift around and cause some noise that will require me to re measure the particular mic position.
The good thing is, as long as you don't change the environment, move stuff around, etc, you can be one-and-done with the measurements. But I always seem to be moving something or rearranging speakers or whatever periodically.

 

[barfle]

I spent yesterday running my new HDMI cable. Yeah, it was literally a pain in my arthritic neck. My room is in a bonus room, and it has a crawl space on noth sides (and one above) accessible by ladder from the garage. And I only have one extension ladder that can reach.

The room is set up with the rack on one side (you’ve all seen the pictures, right?) and the stage on the other, so the cables from the rack to the stage go through conduit under the floor. Although I used the old cable to pull the new one through, there were several hangups that made me have to go to the other side to see what the cable was getting stuck on. Down the ladder, retract the ladder, move it to the other access port, extend the ladder, up the ladder, navigate the crawl space, clear rhe snag, reverse the operation and pull some more cable. Rinse and repeat.

But I got ‘er done, and the picture was glitch free last night. Of course, I discovered that my Center channel and subwoofer connections were swapped when I tried to watch a mono commentary on a library DVD (If you haven’t seen Walter Matthau’s “Hopscotch,” it’s a delightfully funny and wicked movie). Turns out that the Oppo’s connector arrangement is different than the Marantz’s. Took a bit of figuring that out, and programming the Marantz to handle all the variations I want (and my Logitech Harmony remote) added to the intrigue.

Oh, and the Zektor switch uses some of the same IR commands as my cable box.

Endless entertainment. I think we’ll watch a couple of movies to celebrate functionality. Merry Christmas everybody!

 

[mandrix]

More from the budget audiophile.

Well I broke down and snagged a cheap Roku TV off the Amazon for the audio room. Not expensive; not huge. Basically it's going to replace my pc monitor and will sit on a stand about 4/5 feet in front of my desk chair.
I can only JUST cram a 43 inch TV in the space, (about 39 inch space) and it will be right below my big honkin' Center speaker.

But I got tired of fooling with my 4K monitor: trying to get a 4K picture on DP cable only and having to route sound via HDMI to the AVR just wasn't working out.

Anyway it's got HDR10+, HLG, and "automatic brightening", hope THAT works out. lol. It's only a 60Hz, but I think it will be fine to double as a monitor and viewing live concerts. I'm not a gamer, and the Roku lacks some refinements like VRR and the HDMI inputs are 2.0 rather than 2.1.

But hey, the price was right. Christmas present to myself.

 

[mandrix]

I spent yesterday running my new HDMI cable. Yeah, it was literally a pain in my arthritic neck. My room is in a bonus room, and it has a crawl space on noth sides (and one above) accessible by ladder from the garage. And I only have one extension ladder that can reach.

The room is set up with the rack on one side (you’ve all seen the pictures, right?) and the stage on the other, so the cables from the rack to the stage go through conduit under the floor. Although I used the old cable to pull the new one through, there were several hangups that made me have to go to the other side to see what the cable was getting stuck on. Down the ladder, retract the ladder, move it to the other access port, extend the ladder, up the ladder, navigate the crawl space, clear rhe snag, reverse the operation and pull some more cable. Rinse and repeat.

But I got ‘er done, and the picture was glitch free last night. Of course, I discovered that my Center channel and subwoofer connections were swapped when I tried to watch a mono commentary on a library DVD (If you haven’t seen Walter Matthau’s “Hopscotch,” it’s a delightfully funny and wicked movie). Turns out that the Oppo’s connector arrangement is different than the Marantz’s. Took a bit of figuring that out, and programming the Marantz to handle all the variations I want (and my Logitech Harmony remote) added to the intrigue.

Oh, and the Zektor switch uses some of the same IR commands as my cable box.

Endless entertainment. I think we’ll watch a couple of movies to celebrate functionality. Merry Christmas everybody!

Nothing like hitting a remote and having 3 disc spinners fire up. lol. But I have to set the Oppo's for 3 different frequencies.
I haven't used it in a while, but I have an old Harmony 520 remote. I keep thinking I ought to get all the disc spinners loaded up in case a remote goes bad.

I have two remotes for the AVR so not much worried there, and I found a company in China that made a suitable remote for my old Receiver I use to power the height channels. A few years ago I bought one of those Sabaton programmable remotes but wasn't real happy with it. They may have made the process simpler and better by now but doubt I'll fool with it anymore.

I wish my HDMI switch used bluetooth as the remote's angle range is pretty limited.

 

[barfle]

It looks like there’s a way to change the IR commands on the Zektor, but the only issues that it’s caused so far is that it comes on when the remote turns the cable box on. Oddly, when the remote turns the Zektor on, it doesn’t affect the cable box.

I shouldn’t be surprised. I have about eight different manufacturers’ gear in my system, and maybe I should be surprised that conflicts didn’t happen sooner. After all, Zektor even admits they use someone else’s codes.

 

[mandrix]

Well depending on the equipment with HDMI there's CEC. But I don't use it.
I keep 3 remotes sitting at my desk normally, two for the amps and one for the HDMI switch. I used to program the Harmony to switch everything on/off but don't bother these days.
I have a Vizio TV in the audio room and briefly an LG. Both would come on/off with either remote. lol.

 

[AYanguas]

I have the following remotes on the coffee table in front of my MLP couch.

In addition, I select the HDMI input of the HD Fury Vertex2 with the corresponding App on the mobile.
Not here are the remotes to lower and raise the projection screen and the blinds to darken the living room. Those functions are automated by voice Alexa routines.
I also have a Harmony programmed, but I no longer use it because I have become accustomed to all the functionality of each individual remote.

I can live perfectly with this “complication”. The only problem is that my wife doesn't know how to start or stop any home cinema device.

 

[par4ken]

It looks like there’s a way to change the IR commands on the Zektor, but the only issues that it’s caused so far is that it comes on when the remote turns the cable box on. Oddly, when the remote turns the Zektor on, it doesn’t affect the cable box.

I shouldn’t be surprised. I have about eight different manufacturers’ gear in my system, and maybe I should be surprised that conflicts didn’t happen sooner. After all, Zektor even admits they use someone else’s codes.

I believe that you can set the Zekor to use any remote, check the manual. I don't know why you need to use a remote at all, it's not something that you would be constantly switching. I guess that what you are saying is that its (randomly) switching when you use the remote for other purposes. You could cover the sensor with a piece of tape if all else fails.

 

[par4ken]

I have the following remotes on the coffee table in front of my MLP couch.

View attachment 112166

In addition, I select the HDMI input of the HD Fury Vertex2 with the corresponding App on the mobile.
Not here are the remotes to lower and raise the projection screen and the blinds to darken the living room. Those functions are automated by voice Alexa routines.
I also have a Harmony programmed, but I no longer use it because I have become accustomed to all the functionality of each individual remote.

I can live perfectly with this “complication”. The only problem is that my wife doesn't know how to start or stop any home cinema device.

I wish that every piece of equipment would have a full set of physical buttons on the front panel so that you don't need the damn remote!
It is very frustrating when the remote goes missing!

 

[mandrix]

Since I don't use the disc spinners on a daily basis, I just leave those remotes on top the units. I have small towels covering the spinners & the speakers because my carpet is a major dust magnet.

 

[texeast]

I have the following remotes on the coffee table in front of my MLP couch.

View attachment 112166

In addition, I select the HDMI input of the HD Fury Vertex2 with the corresponding App on the mobile.
Not here are the remotes to lower and raise the projection screen and the blinds to darken the living room. Those functions are automated by voice Alexa routines.
I also have a Harmony programmed, but I no longer use it because I have become accustomed to all the functionality of each individual remote.

I can live perfectly with this “complication”. The only problem is that my wife doesn't know how to start or stop any home cinema device.

Thank god my discontinued universal Harmony remote still works. LOL!

 

[mandrix]

I wish that every piece of equipment would have a full set of physical buttons on the front panel so that you don't need the damn remote!
It is very frustrating when the remote goes missing!

Do you sit close to your equipment?
I mean I'm not a lazy person, but to get up and down once seated is sort of a pita to me.
I make good use of the remotes. Mostly just switching HDMI inputs, though I tend to leave the amps off when just perusing on the pc (HDMI passthrough).

 

[barfle]

I believe that you can set the Zekor to use any remote, check the manual. I don't know why you need to use a remote at all, it's not something that you would be constantly switching. I guess that what you are saying is that its (randomly) switching when you use the remote for other purposes. You could cover the sensor with a piece of tape if all else fails.

Well, the reason for the Zektor is so I can switch analog audio MCH inputs to go to the ONE SET of analog audio MCH inputs on my Marantz 7706. I have the outputs from my Oppo 105 (which has excellent DACs), my CD4 decoder, and my Surround Master. So, yeah, I want to be able to switch.

What it has done is switch on when I turn the cable box on. That's not a big issue, but the cable box is purely HDMI, so there's no reason for it to come on. Oddly, when I turn the Zektor switch on, the cable box stays off. And, of course, the Zektor has no front panel controls, just indicators.

 

[Mackspower]

I have the following remotes on the coffee table in front of my MLP couch.

View attachment 112166

In addition, I select the HDMI input of the HD Fury Vertex2 with the corresponding App on the mobile.
Not here are the remotes to lower and raise the projection screen and the blinds to darken the living room. Those functions are automated by voice Alexa routines.
I also have a Harmony programmed, but I no longer use it because I have become accustomed to all the functionality of each individual remote.

I can live perfectly with this “complication”. The only problem is that my wife doesn't know how to start or stop any home cinema device.

My eye is twitching just looking at this. I could not live my life this way
I dug deep and consolidated down to a single Harmony Elite remote. Every button you need and a single OFF button that shuts everything down. Bliss.

 

[GOS]

I too have a Harmony remote, which I "used" to use 100% of the time. Now that all my music is ripped and on a NAS...the only remote I use is my AVR remote to kick on all my amps. The PC is what's running everything I do. Wireless keyboard is king for me. My Harmony remote still works obviously, but it sits over on my shelf, out of reach.