Awesome, thanks.
Hmm... do you think my wife will notice when I set it up below the Emo in the HT rack?
Here it is: the JCQS-440 A.F.V. also known as the Wurlyscope.
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Awesome, thanks.
Hmm... do you think my wife will notice when I set it up below the Emo in the HT rack?
Hi all,
have i told you about buttons colours
I have a big lot of buttons enough to make about 5 units of each: Blue, Green, Red, Violet-Blue, White or Yellow
and about 15 Black and 15 Grey units.
It is also possible to mix colours for example you could have the power button Red while the rest could be Grey.
Tell me what are your taught.
note: the colors are more vibrant in reality.
have i told you about buttons colours
I have a big lot of buttons enough to make about 5 units of each: Blue, Green, Red, Violet-Blue, White or Yellow
and about 15 Black and 15 Grey units.
It is also possible to mix colours for example you could have the power button Red while the rest could be Grey.
Tell me what are your taught.
note: the colors are more vibrant in reality.
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black rules.
I got a 7.0 system. But my decoder is 7.1. I wonder what would happen if I got some gizmo that would take the front center channel and change its phase and use that as channel 6 in the decoder (rear center).... or should I instead mix the two rear channels and create a mono signal?
I'm thinking that this unit will be awesome for testing speakers and amps. For a long time I had an issue with my amp and the RL speaker wasn't coming on. I thought it was the speaker, took it out of the ceiling, tested it and it worked... hmm... so I swapped the amp channel and it worked. With the Wurlyscope I would have known the channel was alive from the decoder! That would have saved me some worry as I didn't know what else up the chain might have failed.
For those of you with a 7.2.4 Atmos system... you're gonna need TWO Wurlyscopes.
I've started to look for two subwoofers... Dang it!
I got a 7.0 system. But my decoder is 7.1. I wonder what would happen if I got some gizmo that would take the front center channel and change its phase and use that as channel 6 in the decoder (rear center).... or should I instead mix the two rear channels and create a mono signal?
I'm thinking that this unit will be awesome for testing speakers and amps. For a long time I had an issue with my amp and the RL speaker wasn't coming on. I thought it was the speaker, took it out of the ceiling, tested it and it worked... hmm... so I swapped the amp channel and it worked. With the Wurlyscope I would have known the channel was alive from the decoder! That would have saved me some worry as I didn't know what else up the chain might have failed.
For those of you with a 7.2.4 Atmos system... you're gonna need TWO Wurlyscopes.
I've started to look for two subwoofers... Dang it!
That’s where the Swap function get into action!
In case of 7 channels systems, you have two configuration to connect your JCQS-440.
1- you can connect the back LR to ch 7 & 8 and the rear surround LR to ch 3 & 4.
This seems like a logical way to go but it will not display properly the audio fields created by the four main channels.
2- you can connect the back LR to ch 4 & 5 and the rear surround LR to ch 7 & 8.
This will allow the unit to display properly the audio fields. The rear stereo surround signal will be displayed on the sides on ch 7 & 8. This work best with the mk-II since ch 5 to 8 won’t affect the display of the audio fields.
but which way to go?
The solution is the Swap function which allow to instantly switch from configuration 1 to configuration 2.
This function can also be convenient when you switch from multichannel and quad signals.
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That sine wave is definitely backwards!Exactly but this does not have any technical meaning for the mk-II and III, except for colour correlation and of course, the visual appeal.
Red as a lower frequency than blue.
You’re right, but in the sine wave under the rainbow, Red is shown as a shorter wavelength. It’s longer.
Ture, red has the longer wavelength as it is the lower frequency... it also carries less energy.
From a user's perspective, I understand the use of red for the lower frequencies, that's my selection too. I went with white, white, blue and red. And black knobs.
Honestly, I wish we had the X-Ray LED option... so we could properly analyze the Superman Movies. But that requires Kryptonite crystal oscillators and currently those are only available from Eastern Russia... so we can't get them.
Just gotta say.... at some point I hope you incorporate this project into a Wurlitzer juke box. So much prettier than the Seeburgs.
I could make you an infrared
I could make you an infrared display to freakout your big screen tv!Ture, red has the longer wavelength as it is the lower frequency... it also carries less energy.
From a user's perspective, I understand the use of red for the lower frequencies, that's my selection too. I went with white, white, blue and red. And black knobs.
Honestly, I wish we had the X-Ray LED option... so we could properly analyze the Superman Movies. But that requires Kryptonite crystal oscillators and currently those are only available from Eastern Russia... so we can't get them.
I could make you an infrared
I could make you an infrared display to freakout your big screen tv!
Infrared would be good for Thanksgiving, we could roast a turkey while watching This Is Spinal Tap. (*)
But, X-Ray is more to my taste, so we can watch movies while wearing our lead suits... Nothing like a 200 lb lead suit to stay put on the couch for a while...
Who says I got a big screen TV? I'm watching all of this over a '78 19 inch Sony Trinitron upgraded to use vacuum tubes on the drive stage.... Everybody knows the color gamut of vacuum tubes far exceeds the "flat palette" of those new fangled digital sets.
(*) The Thanksgiving version with such songs as Big Turkey Bottom, Giblet School, Stoned Stuffed Hedge...
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Hi all!
I've been working on the design of the new cabinet enclosure for the mk-II & mk-III.
As you already know, i had made some CNC files to have them made by a specialized company.
Since that option is no longer...
The mk-I was carved in high density particle board and painted in a paint shop.
I have made some shopping and to stay within the same price range, i decided to make them with pine wood
(not jointed pine), with 2 coats of a black water-based stain/varnish.
I made tests with my router this afternoon and nonetheless, i think they will be fantastic.
Of course i would have loved to use oak, cherry-wood or maple but these are at least 2.5 time more expensive.
Same thing with different wood stain because wood colour is a personal thing.
Beside, i cannot make 20 different colours... lol
Have a great evening!
I've been working on the design of the new cabinet enclosure for the mk-II & mk-III.
As you already know, i had made some CNC files to have them made by a specialized company.
Since that option is no longer...
The mk-I was carved in high density particle board and painted in a paint shop.
I have made some shopping and to stay within the same price range, i decided to make them with pine wood
(not jointed pine), with 2 coats of a black water-based stain/varnish.
I made tests with my router this afternoon and nonetheless, i think they will be fantastic.
Of course i would have loved to use oak, cherry-wood or maple but these are at least 2.5 time more expensive.
Same thing with different wood stain because wood colour is a personal thing.
Beside, i cannot make 20 different colours... lol
Have a great evening!
Would you consider a Rack Mount option??? If so I would like that.
The cabinet will be about 16-3/4 inches wide.
Rack mount including brackets is 19 inches and the space in between is 17- 3/4 inches.
I think it could be possible to simply screw some brackets on each sides.
I just looked on amazon and there are a lot of different options starting at 20$.
I cannot add anything else to the cabinet now because it's already over-budget and i'm out of time.
And it is kewl enough to sit at the top of the rack!
How deep is it?
I will need to install some audiophile footers for sure.
As far as rack mounting, I think it'd be much better to put it on a rack shelf. Less strain on the cabinet and no holes.
Personally, I'm no fan of rack mounting components.... that was a fad years ago... heck my CJ preamp and ARC amp have handles and rack mounting slots.... I never used them as such.
Another nice evening sorting some 2000+ 1k resistors at .1% precision
Measurements ranging from 980 ohms to 1010 ohms give a precision of -2% to +1%
2% variations is not good enough for the 80 op-amp used in mk-II's 4 amplifiers modules that needs to be perfectly matched.
Measurements ranging from 980 ohms to 1010 ohms give a precision of -2% to +1%
2% variations is not good enough for the 80 op-amp used in mk-II's 4 amplifiers modules that needs to be perfectly matched.
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