Haha! Get that! Guess we can make peace through music.Thanks Quadmon. Perhaps a little out of line here but that red blanket over the chair is offensive to us Michiganders
Haha! Get that! Guess we can make peace through music.Thanks Quadmon. Perhaps a little out of line here but that red blanket over the chair is offensive to us Michiganders
Go Illini! Oops.Haha! Get that! Guess we can make peace through music.
Adding a NEW element to Dolby ATMOS' Height channelsHow about building a Bass/Sub-Woofer transmission line speaker under the floor?
Might want to strengthen the walls to cope with the 'earthquake' level Bass though!
You can call it Dolby ATMOS with Depth.Con 1Adding a NEW element to Dolby ATMOS' Height channels
DEPTH CHANNELS
Ingenious, Dunc!
...... for those that like their Martinis shaken not stirredYou can call it Dolby ATMOS with Depth.Con 1
"The rumble that'll make you tumble!"
My Marantz AVR has those 7.1 analog inputs. I don't use them because they are almost unless. They only respond to volume controls, not tone controls; and being analog, they are not tied to the room correction software.In case you don't realize it, the AV-10 does NOT have multichannel analog inputs, only stereo. You will have to go with one of their older pre/pros like the AV8805A or the AV7706.
I am having to build a new media room. I am about to sell my stair-filled house and find something flat.The way to ensure no crawling is to run plastic flex conduit everywhere, 3/4" minimum and 1" minimum if you want to pull connectors thru it or multi pair cables. Can also use for updating to fiber later. And before you close any walls/areas or ditches, take lots of photos!
Iff you’re actually building the room, and you decide to take it down to the studs, run conduit in the walls. As big as you can fit, and run it to places you might not use. The stuff is cheap, as is drywall, and the investment will pay off.I am having to build a new media room. I am about to sell my stair-filled house and find something flat.
I am thinking of using cable trays so I can get to the wiring. The sound wiring in my present house is in the walls and some of it has gone bad.
Not to mention, permits with building inspectors will happen.Iff you’re actually building the room, and you decide to take it down to the studs, run conduit in the walls. As big as you can fit, and run it to places you might not use. The stuff is cheap, as is drywall, and the investment will pay off.
I don’t think they teach drywall in any schools, but it’s not hard, and if you mess it up, it’s fairly easy to fix. Lots of drywall compound or spackle (spackle supposedly shrinks less as it dries), and use screws instesd of nails to fasten it to the studs.
Going down to the studs lets you run all the wiring you need, including power, Ethernet, HDMI, speaker cable, antenna cable, and line-level. It might take an extra week depending on your DIY skills and time to decote to the task, but compared to running wire through blind wall cavities, it is likely to pay off.
Just my rwo cents.
You need sign off inside an existing private domestic dwelling for replacing the wiring in the walls? I'm surprised, there's no such requirement in the UK. Building a new house or for commercial properties sure, but not for changes inside the house you currently live in. You do need a qualified electrician for wiring changes in the fuse box/consumer unit (breaker box in the US?), but that's all.What you are referring to is electrical rough in and must be signed off. Then insulation R-13 minimum in walls, once those two inspections are completed then it is ok to drywall.
If you run a conduit to each wall and then run a conduit horizontally thru the wall studs all along the wall, then you can access any stud section without much cutting. Run it high. Easier to get wires to go down than up and stays away from the receptacles near the floor.Iff you’re actually building the room, and you decide to take it down to the studs, run conduit in the walls. As big as you can fit, and run it to places you might not use. The stuff is cheap, as is drywall, and the investment will pay off.
I don’t think they teach drywall in any schools, but it’s not hard, and if you mess it up, it’s fairly easy to fix. Lots of drywall compound or spackle (spackle supposedly shrinks less as it dries), and use screws instesd of nails to fasten it to the studs.
Going down to the studs lets you run all the wiring you need, including power, Ethernet, HDMI, speaker cable, antenna cable, and line-level. It might take an extra week depending on your DIY skills and time to decote to the task, but compared to running wire through blind wall cavities, it is likely to pay off.
Just my rwo cents.
It really is a different world over in the US, none of the stuff you've described above exists in the UK for domestic properties. Metal conduit is common in commercial buildings, but metal clad wire is something I haven't seen for a long time. Interesting how different it all is.And run your AC power in "MC" or metal clad wire, but get steel clad rather than the aluminum which does not provide magnetic shielding. Use all metal boxes which the flex will ground. Then you can use isolated ground receptacles with the green wire in the MC cable grounding the receptacle screw.
Ricky’s build is not an existing build. It is brand new from ground up.You need sign off inside an existing private domestic dwelling for replacing the wiring in the walls? I'm surprised, there's no such requirement in the UK. Building a new house or for commercial properties sure, but not for changes inside the house you currently live in. You do need a qualified electrician for wiring changes in the fuse box/consumer unit (breaker box in the US?), but that's all.
Metal clad and conduit are not common for residential here as the contractors use the cheapest they can get (what we call Romex). But a serious home theater should be wired more like a recording studio than a living room. Including grounding. Just my opinion!It really is a different world over in the US, none of the stuff you've described above exists in the UK for domestic properties. Metal conduit is common in commercial buildings, but metal clad wire is something I haven't seen for a long time. Interesting how different it all is.
Every time I've tried to use pre-power I get mains hum pickup on the pre to power links. I've given up trying to sort it out after various experiments. Better earthing may or may not help, but most of the wiring is buried behind dry wall (plaster board as we call it) stuck to solid walls (breeze blocks) so it would be a huge amount of work to do anything with it. The sub station less than 10 metres away may not be helping. Our cable in the walls is called flat twin and earth which from what I've seen is very similar to Romex.Metal clad and conduit are not common for residential here as the contractors use the cheapest they can get (what we call Romex). But a serious home theater should be wired more like a recording studio than a living room. Including grounding. Just my opinion!
Midimagic's room is what I was referring to, sounds like it could be a remodel.Ricky’s build is not an existing build. It is brand new from ground up.
The need for inspection on a remodel depends on where in the USA you are too. In the county I live in in NY, low voltage wiring requires no inspection at all and service wiring on a remodel is only required if it involves additions or modifications to the breaker panel.Ricky’s build is not an existing build. It is brand new from ground up.
Yes, in USA you need permits and inspections for all new builds and remodels.
Do some people not get permits even when they are supposed to, of course.
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